Triple-headed sail ­inventories are becoming more popular these days, but the question is, does this setup actually make your boat go faster or simply add more complexity? I remember not too many years ago during a race when someone suggested we hoist the staysail and see if we picked up half a knot of boatspeed. We did, and then after a while everyone was convinced we should take the staysail down. We did, and what do you know? We picked up half a knot. At the time, I guess we really didn’t have the right answer, but we sure had a lot of opinions. Fortunately, with today’s technology we have data to back up what sail ­selection is fastest.

Last year, the team on Andrew Clark’s J/122 Zig Zag wanted to develop a sail inventory specifically for the Newport Bermuda Race. Clark reached out to me, looking for a sail package that would give Zig Zag the best solution to win. Throwing a bunch of sails at the problem wasn’t the solution because there are many factors that can influence the decision on the ideal sail inventory—rating rules, anticipated wind conditions, number of sails and weight.

The first thing we did was look at the historical conditions of the Bermuda Race and determine the percentages we would spend sailing at each wind angle and wind strength. Typically, the Bermuda Race is slightly lighter, with a lot of conditions changing as you enter the Gulf Stream. This told us we had to make sure we had all our bases covered.

The second element we looked at was the number of sails and the total weight of the inventory. If we can reduce the number of sail changes during a race, the less time we can spend sailing below target speeds. Sail changes are costly, and if there is a chance to reduce the number of changes without giving up performance, that needs to be factored into the equation.

The third element is the rating rule. Every rule is different, and special attention needs to be taken to evaluate sail size and the type of sail entered for the certificate. Some rating rules allow you to submit a test certificate to see how the changes affect the rating.

The last element is the quiver of sails that will make up the inventory and be applied to the rating certificate. This step is where the project team looks at everything, weighs the pros and cons, and comes up with a solid inventory of sails that it can then use to build a polar chart specific to the J/122 and the selected set of sails.

After a sail-configuration analysis, the team at Evolution Sails recommended a triple-headed reaching setup that would increase reaching speeds based on the current sail configuration Zig Zag was already using. The triple-headed setup includes a J Zero, jib and gennaker staysail. The J Zero is designed to be a smaller and flatter sail than the traditional larger Code Zero. It’s flown off the bowsprit with a furler and is also referred to as a flying jib. The gennaker staysail is a flat and smaller sail that fits in between the jib and the mast. With the J Zero deployed on the bow pole, the jib can be flown off the forestay as it always is, and then the gennaker staysail is set up between the forestay and mast trimmed inside the jib.

This setup improves the performance better than the traditional inventory options. What we found in previous sail inventories is that tight-­reaching configurations consisted of a jib and a gennaker staysail. An additional sail that was historically designed for reaching was the Jib Top, which is a high-clew jib that can be trimmed easier on a reach than a standard jib.

Once the sails were designed, built and delivered, the hard work of sail testing began. The goal here was to build a polar table and sail chart that would guide us through which sail we should have up in specific ­conditions. Polars are calculated speed versus wind angles that take sail inventory into consideration and can be found from the manufacturer for most boats. What the manufactured polars don’t consider, however, is the sail inventory itself.

The best way to create polars, of course, is by sailing the boat with the sail configurations. Zig Zag uses Expedition software to log actual performance versus the calculated polars the design team compiled. We were able to correct the performance of each sail and configuration, and edit the tables in Expedition to help guide us through the race. We then updated the polars and created a sail chart that showed which sail should be used based on specific wind angles and windspeeds. This process takes time and practice. You need to sail the boat in many sail configurations at each wind angle to find the ideal setup. Zig Zag did several practice days with the triple-headed arrangement in order to log the speed performance versus other configurations.

Expedition software is one of the best sailing software tools on the market. It does an unbelievable job with navigating, but it also helps develop the polars and sail configurations. To have good data from Expedition, however, the electronics on the boat must be calibrated properly. This is the most difficult part of the equation because it is very complex to get accurate. If the data that feeds Expedition is not accurate, the sail and polar analysis will not be accurate. Having a dedicated person who knows the instruments and can calibrate them on an ongoing basis is a key element to have a successful program. With accurate data and a lot of sail testing, Expedition creates data files called strip files. These files contain the data to analyze and also can be sent to a third-party analyst to do the comparison.

Once we were ready to race with an Expedition update and the forecast in hand, we could see which sails we were projected to use throughout the race. This gave us an overall idea of when sail changes needed to happen and which sails we would be looking at using next based on the forecasted wind models.

How do we configure the foredeck to handle all these sails? The pole length is fixed and the forestay is fixed, so those two points are easy. The location for the gennaker staysail forestay is what we needed to figure out. When we looked at the J/122, we needed a mast attachment point and a deck point. We wanted to set the gennaker staysail forestay about two-thirds forward between the forestay and mast, which would allow it to fit between the jib and mainsail, with the leech of the sail just touching the lower shroud.

Once we found that point, we added a soft-shackle attachment point into the deck and an attachment point on the mast near the top set of spreaders.

With all three flying, the jib could be trimmed off a barber-hauler sheet and the primary jib sheet depending on the wind angle. The J Zero is trimmed to an outboard sheet, and the gennaker staysail is trimmed to a cabin-top attachment point that we installed on top of the turning blocks, which gave it the right trimming angle. For different types of boats, you will need to sit down with the sail design team and look at all these issues to be able to design the gennaker staysail and J Zero to fit and be trimmed properly.

Going to the triple-headed sail configuration helped the Zig Zag team improve the overall performance of the boat based on the data analysis. For future races and practices, we will continue to evaluate and tune the numbers to help improve the overall base-line polars. This is an iterative process, and it’s what makes sailboat racing so dynamic and a huge passion for many people. And as for the Bermuda Race results? Team Zig Zag finished first in its division and second overall.

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Adequate insurance ­coverage is an essential part of our lives. Boats, homes, automobiles, health, art collections and businesses should be properly covered, and the same is true for individuals who manage our sport, especially races officials, instructors and coaches training our youth sailors and adults on the water every day. For many years, US Sailing carried an insurance policy that provided coverage for race officials and sailing instructors, but recent accidents and subsequent settlements are prompting many of our institutions and race officials to look more carefully at their coverage and exposure.

Previously, US Sailing’s basic policy provided up to $1 million in coverage per incident and up to $20 million in excess coverage. Insurance for a large portion of American yacht clubs has been provided by Chubb Limited and the Gowrie Group, an insurance agency headquartered in Westbrook, Connecticut. The partnership has been working well to appropriately cover claims for fires, floods, fatalities and injuries over the years, but an incident in November 2020 is having a major impact on how insurance policies are written and who can receive coverage.

The accident, now well-­documented, occurred during a sailing practice in Optimists hosted by Florida’s Sarasota Youth Sailing Inc. The sailor, 10-year-old Ethan Isaacs, was killed by the propeller of a coach boat. A US Sailing-certified 18-year-old instructor was running the practice session near Ken Thompson Park on Sarasota Bay when, according to an incident report published in the Sarasota Herald-Tribune, he “reportedly lost his footing and fell, putting the vessel in gear. He was thrown from the boat that continued forward unmanned, striking several 8-foot sailboats in a SYS Green Fleet practice. Two sailors had minor injuries, and Isaacs died as a result of his injuries at Sarasota Memorial Hospital.”

Carter Gowrie, managing director of the Gowrie Group, says Chubb promptly paid the $1 million claim, which was the policy limit. “The attorney for the parents went looking for another pocket and found that US Sailing covers named insured that are certified instructors,” Gowrie adds. “So, they came straight to US Sailing.”

Chubb then paid $12 million for the claim without going to court, Gowrie says.

Andrew Clouston, senior vice president of programs and ­services at US Sailing, says that after the incident in Sarasota, Chubb realized it needed to clarify its coverage. “The $12 million settlement that came out of our policy wasn’t a judgment—it was a settlement,” Clouston says. “Chubb felt it was better to settle with the family.”

There have been other sailing accidents over the past decade that resulted in fatalities. One accident took place in Annapolis, Maryland, in June 2011 when 15-year-old sailor Olivia Constants drowned after her 420 capsized. An in-depth review panel investigated the incident and made recommendations that resulted in better trapeze equipment for boats, as well as improved procedures for instructors and yacht clubs when accidents happen on the water. The Constants family did not pursue an insurance claim.

An accident similar to the fatality of Ethan Isaacs took place in July 2017 at the Centerport YC on Long Island, New York, when a propeller of an instructor’s boat ran over 12-year-old Ryan Weiss. A Suffolk County police officer, Sargent James Scimone, investigated the accident and reported: “We’re investigating this strictly as an accident. Nobody is at fault. The instructor is a young instructor, and he was doing everything he was taught to do.”

Chubb settled a claim by the Weiss family for $880,000, and the family encouraged elected officials to introduce a requirement, called “Ryan’s Law,” for propeller guards on boats used to instruct children. The Suffolk County New York Legislature passed the bill in July 2018 requiring that an encasement or cage surround the propeller of a boat being used for ­instructional ­sailing courses.

The Isaacs family has proposed different legislation in Florida. Their proposal, published by the Schrier Law Group, is “to require the operators of support boats under 26 feet to wear a device that automatically shuts off the engine if the operator is thrown overboard.” The Schrier paper points out that seven states have similar laws in place. Florida State Rep. Fiona McFarland introduced “Ethan’s Law” in 2021, and the bill is progressing through the Florida State Legislature at this writing, having received unanimous approval to move forward at the committee level.

After the Isaacs family settlement, Chubb clarified that its coverage only applied to race officials and sailing instructors participating specifically in US Sailing Championships, US Sailing events or US Sailing courses.

“In the new form, if a volunteer or employee of a yacht club is working at a regatta, that person is covered by the yacht club’s policy, but not by US Sailing’s policy,” Gowrie says. “The Burgee Program provides coverage for employees and volunteer race officials.”

When asked if independent sailing instructors should have their own insurance policies, Gowrie was forthright: “The instructor should get his or her own insurance. You can’t really rely on other entities to protect you for a liability situation. If you are serious about being a professional coach like that, [then you should] start an LLC and buy your own insurance.”

More than 1,300 organizations across the United States are protected by the Burgee Program, Clouston says, and it “protects not only the organization, but also the board members, flag officers, volunteers and employees.” It is designed for sailing organizations and managed by the Gowrie Group, underwritten by Chubb, and endorsed by US Sailing.

Clouston believes, however, that there should be different levels of insurance depending on who is insured: “The risk is higher for an instructor in a chase boat compared to a judge in a hearing room,” he says. “We are looking at different options for different risk profiles.”

Clouston recommends all yacht clubs and sailing organizations review their policies carefully. “It’s important that clubs pull out their policies and have a good look at them,” he says. “In Sarasota, they had a $1 million policy and no umbrella coverage, and clearly, that wasn’t enough. A race official needs to make sure the club organizing authority has adequate insurance so the race official doesn’t need his own umbrella. If a yacht club is in the Burgee Program, they have good coverage that includes race officials and instructors.”

The Isaacs family settlement has prompted Chubb to put a spotlight on some of the language in policies that were negotiated 20 years ago, Gowrie says. Consequently, Clouston makes an important recommendation for all sailing organizations: “They should look to see that their primary insurance is in place. Those conversations are happening all over the country now, which is a good thing.”

Insurance is an important part of our daily lives, including sports. And while we’re in proliferating litigation, it is the responsibility of US Sailing, yacht-club leaders, boat owners, race officials, sailing instructors and, in fact, all sailors to review their insurance policies. The basic concept of insurance is to spread the risk of loss, and everyone is in this cause together. Higher premiums could jeopardize participation in sailing, so we need to continue to ensure the sport is as safe as it can be. Gowrie says his company provides extensive safety information for yacht clubs, which is available upon request, and this renewed focus on insurance is a good reminder for us all to take the proper steps to help keep people protected and safe on and off the water.

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Sailing is a simple sport. It’s easy to get caught up overthinking it, but if you want to do well, just remember there’s a basic way to do everything, from starts to boat ­handling and straight-line boatspeed. However, getting a good start is the first step to getting good results, so let’s get to the basics of getting off the line and then take it from there.

First things first: Get out to the racecourse at least an hour early. In the half-hour or so before the start, do a number of head-to-wind checks. I do them in a timed sequence, not randomly, which is important. It could be every five minutes or every two minutes, but absolutely do your checks in the same time sequence so that what you record isn’t random. If the wind oscillates through a specific time period, you can better identify the timing of the shifts. If you do your checks at random, you could miss an oscillation. You’re looking for a pattern, so keep doing it until you recognize one. Then go off and sail upwind on both tacks. Record your headings relative to your head-to-wind readings—just write them on the deck or wherever is easiest.

The next thing I’ll do is ping the line once it’s set. One thing we see people do wrong is they ping the line going head-to-wind. You don’t start head-to-wind, so you want to ping it on your normal upwind angle; otherwise, whatever device you’re using will be inaccurate. You can do your ping on either side of the pin; it doesn’t matter. The angle should be whatever angle you’d start the boat at, and you want to be going straight for about five seconds before the ping so the GPS isn’t in wandering mode.

Next is your line sight. I won’t start ­without having a line sight. In fact, I will do three specific line sights: one on the line, one from two boatlengths down, and one that’s four boatlengths down from the line. Your first line sight will be on the line, your second will be one length back, and your third will be two lengths back from the middle of the line.

While you’re doing sights, run along the line, or use a handheld compass and figure out the bearing of the line. Either subtract or add 90 degrees, depending on which end you’re facing, and you’ll know what wind direction the line is even for. If the wind is right of that, then the boat is favored; if it’s left of that, then the pin is favored. It’s simple, and you can do it anywhere on the line.

Now that you’ve recorded your wind checks, have a good sense of what the wind pattern is doing, and have your line numbers, it’s time to take at least two runs at the line. You want two runs of at least a minute, on starboard tack, to get your ratio of time and distance to the line. The most commonly used starting devices display distance in meters. So, for example, let’s say you go 2 meters for every second. That means you can be 120 meters behind the line and hard on the line with no interference—that gets you to the line on time and at speed. So, do two of those runs to feel what that ratio is. Let’s say the ratio is 1-to-1 (like it usually is), and I have 30 seconds to go but I’m 40 meters from the line. This tells me I will be 10 meters late no matter what I do. That’s why it’s important to have that ratio.

It’s also important to keep in mind that you can always slow down. You can’t go faster when you’re hard on the wind. So, when I get to the actual number and still have 40 seconds to go, and there’s anyone between me and the line, I’m not going to get there on time because I don’t have a clear line.

Again, you’ll need a couple of runs to get that ratio right. And then, of course, the ratio depends hugely if you’re on a lift or a header in that moment. If it’s a header, you’ll need more time to get to the line; if it’s a lift, you’ll get to the line sooner, so it’s important to know where you are at, and that’s why it’s important know where you are in the wind pattern. You might have a 1-to-1 ratio in an even wind, but if you’re in a header, you better plan on an extra 10 seconds. If you’re in a lift, you might need to burn 10 seconds more.

The final bit of prep is with two and a half minutes to go before the start. Here, I’ll set up a couple of boatlengths over the line, near the middle, and do my last head-to-wind check. Why? Because I want clear air to do the check. This tells me where the windshift is in the cycle and where I want to start.

A good start is being able to sail for three minutes uninterrupted, in clear air, and not restricted by the boat below. If you can do that alone, you’ll be in the top percent at the weather mark, regardless of what happens after that. If you want to go right, then you need to start in a place that allows you to go right within 30 to 40 seconds after the start. I’m always willing to give up a boatlength or two to not start in the perfect place on the line if I have a reason to go to the right. Off the starting line, if it’s a header and oscillating, you want to go fast to the next shift. If you’re in a persistent shift, then you want to go high into it, not fast forward. It really is that simple.

Starting at the favored end isn’t the ticket to success—most of the time. It’s more important to be able to go the direction you want immediately. At some point after the start you will need to tack, and that should be as soon as you’re confident you can cross the boats behind you and on the other side. Don’t wait until you get to the layline. It’s OK to give up a few boats on your side to go back a little early and be able to close off half or more of the fleet. It’s a good gamble, and we don’t see that done often enough. The best people can see the big picture and a couple of moves ahead. They can see what wins the regatta rather than that race, and that’s a big distinction.

Soon after the start, you should be sailing either offense or defense. Offense means you’re not happy with where you are in the race, and you have to take some chances to improve yourself in the regatta.

Now, we all know even the best plans can go wrong in the closing minutes of the start, especially in big fleets, so it’s also important to have an exit plan so you’re not getting tacked on right of the start and bounced back and forth. Predetermine which tack you want to be on and where you want to go. So, if things go wrong, determine ahead of time whether you want to exit on port or starboard tack, and be ready to do it.

In the bottom third of the racecourse, meaning soon after the start, you should be sailing either offense or defense. Offense means you’re not happy with where you are in the race, and you have to take some chances to improve yourself in the regatta. Defense means you’re happy with where you are in the regatta, and you stay with the group you’re with. You’re doing anything you can to maintain your position rather than doing everything you can to go forward in the fleet. Just like any other sport, playing offense or defense means you have to count points—and I’m astonished by how many good sailors do not.

A word about relying on GPS devices and pings: You have to be careful because the race committee will occasionally move stuff after you’ve pinged, so these might not be accurate. This is why it’s important to use your eyesight and your line sights all the time. For example, if your ping says you have 15 meters to go and your eyes tell you ­differently, then you better be careful.

Also, if you have your ratio to the line and know you’re behind it, it’s better to make something happen sooner—even if that means a tack. It’s better to tack with 30 seconds to go than a minute or two after the start when you’re about to get ping-ponged. Decide at 30 seconds to go whether your approach is going to work. If not, you can either tack or put the bow down and try to sail around people who are going slow. Either way, you can’t just sit there and wait. When things are good, time is your friend; when things are bad, time is your enemy. If you don’t like what’s going on in the moment, do something about it. It really is that simple.

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What makes a great tack? It’s simple: whatever technique allows you to maintain the optimal combination of the best VMG during the tack and the fastest acceleration out of the tack. That’s easy to say but tough to do well. In my Interclub dinghy days, in light air, we often looked for opportunities to start a tacking duel with nearby competitors. It didn’t matter which way each boat was going; all we wanted to do was grind them down—keep tacking, gaining on every tack. Eventually, someone prevailed. That’s the power of being able to tack really well, and although you may seldom be in that type of tacking combat, tacking better than nearby boats can give you that extra couple of boat lengths that make the difference between rounding just ahead of a pack or rounding in the middle of it.

There always needs to be a reason to tack. It can be for a windshift, to find more wind, to head toward an advantaged side of the racecourse, to avoid a starboard tacker, being at or near the layline, for a navigational hazard such as a shoreline, shoal or oncoming freighter, to cover the fleet, to consolidate on a gain or minimize a loss, and even to take a flyer if in poor position. When in doubt, don’t tack. Many racers, including myself, tack too much—it’s a fatal flaw.

A few of my rules: Don’t tack in lulls or anytime tacking will put you into bad air. It’s better to tack in puffs, unless in heavy air and you’re worried about wiping out. When the windspeed is variable with gusts and lulls, you will lose much less by tacking in a gust rather than trying to accelerate in the light air of a lull after the tack. In oscillating winds, with several shifts per beat, generally tack anytime you are headed below your mean (average) compass heading for the tack you are on. There will be times when you should “eat a header” to get a bit deeper into the new shift, and there will be other times when you may tack off a small lift to find a larger shift or more wind.

For any given beat, study and ­understand the optimal number of tacks that leg requires to be sailed perfectly in the absence of other boats. Only one person should decide exactly where to tack—either the helmsperson or the tactician. And once that decision has been made, ­communication with the crew and the selection of the time and place to tack is critical, especially in a seaway. A well-trained crew is always ready to tack, which means sheets are always cleared, winches loaded, etc. I train the crew not to move until the countdown commences, “3, 2, 1, helm’s over.”

In a seaway, the tack must be done in harmony with the wave pattern. Choose an area or sequence of smaller waves. Done right, the wave pattern will assist the tack. Get the bow of the boat past head to wind as the next wave approaches so that the new wave helps push the bow down to course, requiring less rudder movement. When Tucker Edmondson and I were learning to sail 505s in our first big event—the 1979 World Championships in Durban, South Africa—we developed a technique for tacking in huge ocean waves that worked well: We’d finish the tack and accelerate on the top of the wave crest, filling the sails there instead of in the trough of the wave, where there was less wind.

Steering well through a tack is a bit like the Goldilocks story—you need to turn not too quickly, not too slowly, but just right. Of course, the million-dollar question is, what’s just right? The speed of the turn differs with every type of boat, every wind velocity and, as was the case for us at the 505 Worlds, every sea condition. Those are a lot of variables.

A great tack involves picking up as much VMG as possible during the first segment of the tack, and landing on the ideal exit angle for maximum acceleration as the tack is completed. This all requires good steering, crew coordination and sail trim. Broadly stated, a large, heavy keelboat should be tacked slower, and a light, planing dinghy should be tacked quickly. The fastest turn should be made in medium air and choppy seas, while the slower turn is good for flat water, lighter winds, and when overpowered in heavy winds. In overpowered conditions, the boat’s exit from the turn must be done slowly so as not to end up heeling excessively once on the new tack. No matter what, be sure not to overturn and end up on a course too low of your desired exit angle.

RELATED: Sailboat Racing Tips: Rules at the Start

Because most boats carry some windward helm or rudder angle, begin the tack by slowly moving the tiller or wheel to centerline and gliding the boat up toward head to wind. It’s through this first segment of the tack that you gain maximum VMG, so the longer you can maintain the boat’s momentum, the more VMG you’ll gain. However, that VMG gain comes with an associated loss of speed, which can be measured by the minimum boatspeed reached at the end of the tack as the acceleration segment begins. Have your crew watch the speedo or use a recording instrument, and you’ll get a good sense for that. How do you know when to end the glide and turn the boat through head to wind? Practice, experience, measurement and analysis, of course. I use an increasing rate of turn until just past head to wind and as the sails begin to fill on the new tack.

How you steer the next ­segment of the tack, from just past head to wind until you get to your acceleration angle, a few degrees below close-hauled, is critical. Just after passing head to wind, the speed of the tack, and therefore the degree of rudder angle, gradually increases—more ­rudder angle and a faster turn. From there, the next step is to land right on the exit angle. The location of that angle varies depending on the type of boat. You’re looking for the point where you most rapidly accelerate to the speed you were sailing before tacking. Finding the exit angle for your boat will take a lot of practice tacks. As you do them, note your target and actual speeds, the bottom (or slowest speed) during the tack, and how long it takes to accelerate back to full speed once on the new tack. As you approach the exit angle, the speed of the tack should slow, which means you’ll gradually reduce rudder angle. With an overlapping genoa, you might even want to pause the tack once the genoa is past the leeward shrouds. That allows the crew to trim on the genoa before it really loads up.

Trimming nonoverlapping jibs through a tack requires more finesse, and I’ve found that only the best trimmers do it right. As the boat turns up into the wind, the old leeward sheet is readied to ease. That might involve reducing the number of wraps on the winch, or uncleating the sheet so it is ready to ease freely. Don’t allow the old sheet to ease. During the tack, the jib is backed just a tiny amount, which accomplishes two things. First, it helps turn the boat through the wind and down onto the new tack. And second, it helps blow the jib around. Without backing, the tack will be slow. However, too much backing and the jib will reduce the forward speed of the boat like a brake. The moment it backs, immediately let the old sheet go. There are exceptions to this, such as when approaching the windward mark on the port tack layline. Then, allowing the jib to back for a couple of seconds helps pull the bow down to the new reaching course to the offset mark, requiring less ­rudder angle.

Next—and this is super-important—the trimmer of the new sheet must ­overtrim the new sheet as quickly as possible so that the jib fills on the new tack before the boat reaches its optimal course on the new tack. Once filled on the new tack, the jib provides acceleration and adds lee helm, thus reducing the amount of rudder angle needed to steer the boat down to the exit angle. The overtrim should be as hard as possible. That’s followed by an immediate ease until the boat reaches the exit angle. That ease must be done in harmony with the helms­person. So, as the boat ­continues its turn down to the exit angle, the trimmer eases the jib sheet until, as the boat accelerates to its optimal VMG angle and speed, the jib is then trimmed back in to its optimal tension and shape. A big indicator is the telltales will all be flowing. The process sounds easy, but it takes a lot of coordination between the offside trimmer, who eases the old sheet and backs the sail, the new trimmer and the helms­person. When done correctly, the jib fills on the new tack and literally pulls the bow of the boat down to the desired course, thereby reducing the amount of helm required to turn the boat. Less rudder means less braking, less drag—and greater speed. And that’s what we’re always after.

The post Progress to Perfect Tacks appeared first on Sailing World.

Headstay Tension

Let’s start with headstay sag, which creates power in the headsail. In light air, a softer headstay powers up the sail by making it fuller. When it’s windy, a tighter headstay reduces power as it pulls draft out of the sail. And then there’s everything between those extremes. There are three primary ways to affect headstay sag—backstay, rig tension and mainsheet tension. The backstay is the most effective and often easiest to adjust of the three. An added bonus is the backstay also bends the mast, flattening the main. This helps keep the boat well-balanced. As puffs and lulls affect the sail plan, the backstay keeps both sails powered or depowered together.

The second option, for boats with aft-swept spreaders, is rig tension. By tightening the shrouds, you increase ­tension on the forestay. Generally speaking, given a fixed amount of backstay tension, tightening the shrouds creates more headstay tension. This is helpful if the mainsail is already flat and you don’t want to add more backstay, which might invert the main. Definitely check with your spar manufacturer or one-design guide about maximum shroud tension because it can add a lot of compression and load to the mast. Loosening the shrouds has the opposite effect, adding headstay sag.

The third option, mainly for smaller boats, is mainsheet tension. While its effect is different from boat to boat, mainsheet tension tightens or loosens the leech of the main, which in turn acts like a backstay—more mainsheet tension, more leech tension, less headstay sag.

As the headstay sags, draft gets deeper and moves forward because the sagging headstay puts shape in the front of the jib first. While a slightly deeper jib or genoa is often faster in light air, extreme forward draft is often not the solution when you need power. Enter halyard tension. As you sag the ­headstay, ease halyard tension, and the draft will shift aft. As you tension the headstay, pull the draft forward by ­tightening the halyard.

Until the boat is under­powered, headstay sag helps the boat point higher. That is in part due to the angle of attack. Imagine a straight line drawn halfway up the sail from luff to leech. As you sail upwind with a tight headstay, that line is, for example, 20 degrees off centerline to your boat. The wind flows over the boat and the sails are happy at this hypothetical position. As you sag the forestay, the front of the sail moves to leeward. That same imaginary line is now 15 degrees off centerline. Without factoring in other variables, your boat can now head up 5 degrees to keep the sail at the same angle to the wind.

While different boats seem to handle headstay sag differently, there are some common ways to determine if it is too much or too little. When it is windy and the boat is overpowered, too much sag can result in a lack of pointing. The jib is full because of the sag, and that pulls the bow to leeward. To make matters worse, if overpowered, the mainsail trimmer has likely depowered the mainsail. This compounds the problem of the sideways pull on the sail plan. A great coach of mine would often refer to this as “front loading” (or “back loading”) the sail plan. If you are front-loaded (powerful jib and depowered main), the boat will sail a little sideways upwind, resulting in lack of pointing. Lee helm is a sign of this.

Another key visual of ­excessive headstay sag is when the leech of the jib or genoa “returns,” or angles to windward, up into the mainsail. Trimming the leech close to parallel to the boat’s centerline is often fastest until it is very windy. If the leech returns into the back of the mainsail, it could be a sign that the headstay needs to be tightened. If the leech still returns into the back of the main after the headstay is visually tight, ease the sheet or move the lead aft. At the opposite end of the spectrum, if you’re too tight on the forestay, the boat will feel underpowered or lack pointing ability in light air, which takes us back to the earlier discussion about angle of attack.

When the boat is too flat and underpowered, and crew hiking isn’t needed, I carry as much headstay sag as I can without feeling that the jib leech is returning into the main, the headstay is becoming unstable due to chop or sea state, or the headsail’s draft is too far forward. In light air with a lot of headstay sag, often I ease the sheet slightly so that the leech doesn’t return into the main.

As the wind builds and the crew start hiking, I slowly reduce headstay sag. When everyone is fully hiking and the trimmers are looking to depower to reduce heel, I’ll be near maximum headstay tightness. From the trimmer’s position, the headstay will look nearly straight to the eye. What is maximum tightness? That’s when the backstay tightens to the point where the headstay is firm and the mainsail is too flat and starts to look like it is inside out. Sensors that measure headstay load can be helpful in knowing the load you are at and to confirm you aren’t loading above a manufacturer’s recommended safe working load.

Jib Halyard Tension

Halyard tension primarily ­controls the draft position of your headsail. A tighter halyard pulls the draft forward, while a looser halyard lets the draft aft. In general, most boats like the draft between 29 and 34 percent through the middle of the sail. Imagine a straight line from the leading edge of the draft stripe to the trailing edge of the draft stripe. A point on the draft stripe (think deepest part of the curve) is farthest from that imaginary line. This is your draft location. When we say draft at 30 percent, we’re saying that the deepest part of the draft stripe is 30 percent back from the luff to the leech on the sail. While we don’t see it often, marks on the draft stripe at 25, 30 and 35 percent can be helpful.

Two primary factors affect draft position, and thus how much halyard is needed to correct it. First and most important is headstay sag, discussed previously. As a headstay sags, it pushes depth into the front of the sail. Ease the halyard and you can get the draft back to the desired location. Inversely, if the headstay is tight and the shape in the front of the sail is pulled out, a tight halyard pulls the draft forward to the desired location. That’s why having good reference marks on halyards is so important. At a leeward mark, if the pit person puts the halyard back where it was at the weather mark, your draft location should be the same.

The second factor is the age of the sail. As a sail ages, the draft naturally goes aft. New sails have the draft quite forward, and thus require less halyard tension to achieve the desired draft location. The opposite is also true. As a sail ages and the draft slides aft, more and more halyard tension is required to pull the draft forward.

Once you understand how the halyard changes draft position, you can fine-tune the sail shape. What’s cool is as you pull halyard tension on and pull the draft forward in the sail, the aft part of the sail gets flatter. That causes less drag when overpowered. Likewise, when underpowered, less halyard tension makes the back part of the sail slightly fuller, which powers the boat up—great for light air and flat water. Now you can point high without fear of hitting a wave and slowing. It’s trickier in choppy conditions. Then, when powered up, a draft-forward sail helps drive the boat through the chop. In underpowered, choppy conditions, the sheet is likely eased a little to keep the boat going, and thus a softer halyard keeps the boat powered up, pulling it through the chop.

Jib Lead Position

Now let’s talk about lead ­position, which controls the overall camber of your headsail. While it does have an effect on the entire sail, it is most noticeable in the bottom 50 percent. Lead forward creates a fuller, more powerful headsail while lead aft flattens the headsail.

As a general rule, most boats prefer the camber between 11 and 15 percent through the middle and lower middle of the sail. Imagine a straight line from the leading edge of your draft stripe to the trailing edge of your draft stripe. A point on the draft stripe (think deepest part of the curve) is farthest from the imaginary line. This, like your draft location, is also your camber. We divide the length of the imaginary line connecting the front and back of the draft stripe by the length of the imaginary line connecting the deepest part of the sail to the closest spot on the imaginary line. When we say camber at 15 percent, we’re saying that the deepest part of the draft stripe is 15 percent of the overall length of the imaginary line connecting the front of the stripe to the back of the stripe.

While other factors affect the camber of a headsail, such as headstay sag, halyard tension, battens and the age of the sail, the lead has the greatest effect over the bottom of the sail. As you push the lead forward, the bottom of the sail becomes more powerful but also ­creates drag because the wind has to bend around the sail as it passes by. As you pull the lead aft, the bottom of the sail ­flattens, reducing drag but also decreasing power.

A large part of the ­headsail’s lead position is balancing the overall camber of the sail while keeping the telltales breaking close to even. Why do I say close? I believe it is a bit of a myth that they should break evenly. Aboard every fast boat I sail on, the top telltales break just a hair sooner than the lower ones. This is especially true when the boat is fully ­powered up with crew hiking. A slightly twisted open sail ­promotes full flow on the leech telltales while depowering the top of the sail first, which helps righting moment.

As I mentioned before, the age of the sail can result in an overly full sail. As a sail ages, it often requires a flatter foot to maintain a consistent camber. And, as with most things in life, balance is required. If a sagging forestay creates too much camber, lead aft can help. I find that balancing all of these controls is the key to fast sail shapes. Too much of one thing resulting in not enough of another can be slow.

Let’s look at when you want a full versus a flat-footed sail. Because it is a major control of overall power, is it safe to say that the more overpowered you are, the flatter you want your jib. When looking for power, a fuller jib is generally better to a point. If it is choppy and the driver must steer lower to keep the boat moving, a fuller jib will generally help keep the bow down and the boat powerful. In flat water, when powered up without fear that the boat will hit chop and slow down, the foot can be relatively flat and the jib sheeted hard to decrease drag and help ­pointing ability.

Jib Sheet Tension

While sheet tension might seem like the easiest part to understand when trimming a headsail, it can be the hardest to master. And while it has minimal effect on draft location, it can have a great effect on overall camber, balance of the boat and helm, and pointing ability.

Taking away other factors, when you ease a headsail sheet, the bottom of the sail gets fuller, while the top of the sail twists open and naturally gets flatter. As with lead position, a significant part of good headsail sheet tension is balancing the overall camber of the entire sail while keeping the telltales breaking close to even.

One factor when ­determining how hard to sheet the jib is backwind in the mainsail. In general, backwinding the mainsail is bad when it can be helped, and easing the sheet a little can really help settle down a luffing mainsail. As a headsail trimmer, I look for a bubble developing at the leading edge of the main, generally around a third up from the bottom of the sail. A slight bubble is often fine, but when the bubble starts “pumping” or the mainsail full-on luffs from front to back, I ease the sheet a little or let the jib lead aft to open up the leech.

Airflow across the sail is just as important, and the go-to indicator on nonoverlapping jibs is leech telltales. While we generally don’t see leech telltales on larger overlapping headsails, perhaps it would be a good thing to start doing. Leech telltale flow is critical for smaller boats because we generally try to sheet as hard as we can without stalling them. By sheeting the headsail tight, we allow the boat to point as high into the wind as it can. I watch the upper leech telltales like a hawk. While mainsails seem to be OK with a little stall in the top telltale, I find that headsails enjoy 100 percent flow. I will often test my sheet tension by sheeting harder until the ­telltales start to stall behind the leech, and then ease it slightly until they fly again. When we’re in a tactical situation that requires sailing a little higher and slower, I will occasionally sheet hard enough that the top leech telltale stalls 10 percent of the time, but never more. These changes are always subtle. On a boat like an Etchells, I’ll move the clew through a range of 3 to 5 millimeters. On a larger boat such as a 50-footer, 8 to 12 millimeters would be a decent range.

We’ve got headstay sag, halyard tension, lead position and sheet tension. None of these functions in isolation. Adjust one and it affects something else.

Finally, with so many ­variables and adjustments, the jib leech tension changes a lot through puffs and lulls. In a lull, often the leech will get tighter because there is less wind stretching it out. This often requires a little ease. Of course, the opposite is true in a puff, and then I’ll bring the sail in a little. It’s vital to communicate with the tactician and driver. Within your final headsail settings, you have the capability to help the boat sail in three ­different modes: slightly higher and slower, slightly lower and faster, and normal velocity made good (VMG). For tactical reasons, the tactician or helms­person might want one of these modes.

OK, let’s put it all together now. We’ve got headstay sag, halyard tension, lead position and sheet tension. None of these functions in isolation. Adjust one and it affects something else. It’s a bit like juggling four balls—the only way you’ll keep them in the air is if you keep them in sync. Let’s sail a hypothetical windward leg, one where we encounter puffs and lulls, and have to account for the occasional tactical situation. Hopefully, by seeing how I manage those elements of jib control, you’ll have a better idea of how you can keep all the balls in the air and work toward perfect jib trim. For this windward leg, I’m ­sailing with the tactician, Steve, the helmsperson, Jim, and our wind caller, Serena.

First, we did our homework. We spent some time sailing upwind before the start, which gave me time to set up the jib as I liked for the conditions, around 8 knots and flat water. With that trim as my normal upwind VMG, we now have a baseline for everything else I’ll do with the jib.

At the start, I’m at 95 percent trim from my baseline. This means I’m close to maximum sheet tension. It’s good for accelerating at a start or out of a tack, or reaccelerating after hitting chop.

At the start, I’m at 95 percent trim from my baseline. This means I’m close to maximum sheet tension. It’s good for accelerating at a start or out of a tack, or reaccelerating after hitting chop. The boat’s moving well and we’re accelerating, as are the boats around us. After a boatlength or two, I feel the boat moving at full speed, so I pull in the sheet just a few more clicks and say, “Max trim” or “100 percent trim.” That tells Steve and Jim that we are trimmed for our best upwind VMG. How do I know this? The leech ­telltales are flowing 100 percent, but just barely. They are on the verge of stalling because they seem jittery rather than fully streaming. As it is only blowing 8 knots, I have set up the jib powerfully, with 3 to 4 inches of headstay sag, the lead set forward to allow a fair amount of power down low, and slight wrinkles in the luff, allowing the draft to slide back to around 30 percent.

Steve starts talking about seeing more wind on the top left side of the course and says we should go fast forward to the left. As the headsail trimmer, I can help make that happen. It’s all simple, subtle changes. I ease the sheet a few millimeters to let the top leech telltales stream with force. If it was windier, I would pull the draft forward with more halyard. This would flatten the back and reduce drag, helping the boat go forward. However, because it is light and we are still looking for maximum power, I will leave the halyard soft. Combined with efforts from the main trimmer and driver, we shift to a low and fast mode.

As we get out to the left side, the wind starts building, as predicted, to 12 to 13 knots. We are fully powered up and hiking hard, but we’re heeling too much. It’s time to depower the headsail. Because the water is so flat, I ask for more backstay to pull out some forestay sag, and then slide the lead aft a hair. As the backstay tensions, I see the leech open slightly, so I pull on some sheet to get the leech right back where it was, with the top leech telltale flowing as before. I have also pulled on more halyard to get the draft forward to the 29 percent range.

We’re now solidly in the ­pressure, and Steve says we should go back to normal VMG. On comes the jib sheet to get the top leech telltales just on the verge of stalling. “Max trim,” I say. A minute or two shy of the layline, we tack onto port and work our way back into the ­middle of the course.

As we come out of the tack, I say “90 percent trim.” Just a few seconds later I say, “95 ­percent.” Seconds later I say, “99 percent.” I really want to make sure we are at full speed before getting to 100 percent, or max trim. As we get back to the center of the course, the wind becomes a little puffy. I’m constantly watching the leech to see if I need to sheet on or off as the leech changes slightly with the puffs. I’m moving the sheet through a range of just 5 to 10 millimeters. Serena calls that this next lull will last at least a minute or longer, so I power the jib up a little with a softer halyard.

As we get closer to the mark, a competitor tacks in front of us and slightly to leeward. Steve says he would prefer not to tack. To keep our air clear for as long as possible, it’s time for a high mode. We’re still in that lull and not overpowered, so I call for a slight backstay ease. That sags the headstay a ­little, ­helping the sail’s angle of attack to the wind—all great for pointing. As the headstay sags a little, the leech telltales want to stall sooner, so I am vigilant about not overtrimming the sail. I know—it’s ­counterintuitive to have the sheet out a little when trying to sail in a high mode, but it’s important not to stall the jib. If the boat slows too much, the keel does less work, and we will start sliding to leeward. After the changes, we are higher and slower, and able to hold our lane.

The wind builds again, and Serena calls out that there is a chop ahead of us, mostly caused by competitors’ wakes, which are crisscrossing everywhere. A little draft forward in the jib will help us punch through the chop in the stronger wind, so I tighten the halyard a little, and the draft moves from 32 to 30 percent. As an unwanted side effect, the leech gets tighter because the halyard is pulling against the sheet. I can tell this because the leech telltales start stalling. I must either ease the sheet a little or let the lead move aft. If we’re looking for power to get through the waves but not to be overpowered, I generally just ease the sheet, which not only opens the leech but also powers up the bottom of the sail. However, right now we are fully powered up, so a little lead aft opens the top of the leech back up, depowering the sail a little. We’re now just boatlengths from the weather mark.

We don’t always run into that many different conditions, but for our purposes, I threw them in so you could see the range of my trimming routine. I try to remember that headsail shape always needs to change based on changing conditions and tactical decisions. I imagine a perfect shape—how I want the jib to look in each condition—and then use the four controls to achieve that. And I’m always anticipating, constantly asking myself what my next change will be if this happened or that happens. I listen to our crew calling puffs and stay ready with a change before the boat slows or heels too much.

One change often affects another part of this hypothetical shape and, as I emphasized earlier, multiple changes often go together. If you can manage that while staying on the same page as the rest of the crew about what mode you need to be in, you’ll go a long way toward keeping the jib optimally trimmed the entire weather leg.

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