Any summer sailing in New England is hard to beat, so Quantum expert Carter White breaks down how you can make the most of your time in Marblehead.

I have raced in and around Marblehead since the late 1980s and witnessed almost every condition, from a drifter to a hurricane. I’ve probably sailed in every location the clubs use for their various racing circles, and I’ve also helped organize the ONE Regatta (previous PHRF-NE and current Ted Hood Regattas) and the 2014 J/105 North Americans. Through it all, I’ve seen that each circle brings its challenges, trends, and conditions, which I will try to break down here.

Outside Course (aka Outside Line)

The outside course is the area furthest offshore and most to the right of the harbor when looking away from land. The course is normally centered 3.25 NM at 175° (magnetic) from Marblehead Bell RG “FR” but can often be closer to shore. Typical conditions for this course would be no wind in the morning and a sea breeze filling in during the afternoon, around 1pm or so. If this is the case and there haven’t been any significant storms immediately ahead of the sailing day, you should have relatively flat water with possible one-foot easy rollers. 

The key to success is to figure out the current/tide. The current/tide does not go out from land and into land during the ebb and flood, but the current goes left to right or right to left (looking out from shore toward the southeast), moving slightly northeast/southwest.

The wind will fill from the southeast, probably around 130 to 150 degrees, and it will be stronger away from land as it fills. The current is usually uniform across the course, and, with a predicted direction of 170 to 180 degrees, the race committee will often skew the course to the right. The RC knows people want to go left, so the skew keeps things even. But even with the skew to the right, the pressure is more to the left, so starting at the pin and going left is key upwind. Downwind you almost always stay straight at the windward mark and work the edge of the course down to the corner and gybing on layline or close to it. This keeps you in the bigger pressure downwind on the course’s left side (looking upwind). All of this is happening early in the day of racing, around 1pm to 3pm.

After 3pm, you need to start looking at the right side of the course. Typically, the lower left will still be favored, but watch out for the top right as the wind moves from 130 to 170 degrees or more as the day progresses. Often the shift doesn’t outweigh the pressure, but if you see large, puffy clouds over Boston (to your right looking upwind), you can predict the right shift will happen. Finally, remember the current as it will be critical for starting and laylines, not necessarily for course-side advantages. History has rewarded the folks who won the corners on this course and timed the shift and pressure perfectly.

As you are waiting for the typical conditions I’ve described or are in a different northerly breeze with predictions to shift, watch the clouds onshore over Salem. If the big, puffy clouds start forming, the sea breeze is coming. The land breeze will continue if wispy high clouds remain and there are no puffy clouds.

Finally, like anywhere, the typical conditions occur 50 percent of the time, while anything else happens the other 50 percent. In this case, be prepared for chop and rollers. The current is strong, and when going against the breeze, it will create a decent 1- to 2-foot chop on top of one- to three-foot rollers that may or may not line up with the chop. If this is the case, make sure to have plenty of twist and power; you will need the twist to drive around the waves and keep the helm light while still having enough power to go through the occasional wave you can’t miss. In most boats, this means playing the backstay almost constantly.

The Halfway Rock Line

Much of the outside line details and tips and tricks can also apply to the halfway rock line. However, the current can be trickier on this course. This circle is typically centered 2 NM at 135°   (magnetic) from Marblehead Bell RG “FR” and is more exposed to Salem Bay and the Danvers River. Here you will have potentially two different currents: one coming from and going to land (in and out of Salem west/east) and another northeast/southwest like the outside course. This creates more disturbed water and chop than the outside course.

With the typical conditions I’ve described, the starting line will be set closer to shore and in one current, while the weather mark will be in a completely different current. This is key for starting and approaching the marks, and can make or break the downwind leg, possibly because you may want to use the current to your advantage when picking a side. 

The Tinkers Line

In my experience, this course can be the trickiest. This circle is just outside Marblehead Harbor and closest to Marblehead Neck, the largest land mass. On this circle, you can see up to three different current directions on one leg, and the land can become a factor creating a constant geographical advantage. On this line, it is imperative to have a training partner to sail upwind on opposite tacks for five minutes or more and then come back together to see who is ahead or behind. There will often be a significant difference, and it will only be clear sometimes which side will win. In my experience, heading towards land has paid off in most conditions on this course; however, there are times you must go offshore to get more breeze.  

The Brimbles Line

This is typically where the lasers or smaller boats sail as it is protected by islands on almost all sides of the course. It is closest to Salem Harbor and is the most inner course. Its challenge is boat traffic on the weekends. Many sailboats and powerboats are leaving and returning to Salem and Marblehead Harbors, and this course is at the crossroad of those trips. This often causes square chop even when the wind and current are lined up for a smooth day. On this line, you are closest to Salem Harbor and Danvers River, which will be the predominant currents (generally west/east). Due to the proximity of the islands, the winds are much less stable, so this circle typically has much shiftier winds. Here, the shifts become more important than the pressure, so staying on the lifted tack is critical.

If you have any questions, get in touch with a Quantum representative to discuss your racing further. Good luck, and welcome to Marblehead!

The post Summer Sailing in Marblehead appeared first on Sailing World.

Spring brings excellent weather conditions that arguably make it the best time to sail in Annapolis. Make sure your boat is tuned and trimmed properly so you can quickly get where you want to go on the course. Then it’s heads-up sailing to navigate the strong tidal currents and potentially shifty breeze.

Early May might be the ideal time to sail in Annapolis: the average temperature is a pleasant 69 degrees, the average wind direction is west, and the average speed is 7 knots. When you sail in Annapolis, you can almost always count on strong currents and choppy conditions due to motorboat traffic. The current flow in the Chesapeake Bay is tidal − flood tides run south to north and ebb the opposite. Many flowing rivers and large tributaries affect the current in the bay, meaning published tide tables are not 100-percent accurate and highly dependent on location and recent rainfall. It is paramount to keep an eye on the many signs in the bay that can give you hints to the fluctuations in strength and direction of currents, such as the tankers anchored in the shipping channel, the buoys, and the many area crab pots.

These factors make determining when the current will switch in the lighter breezes critical to top finishes. In the spring, the ebb tide is usually much stronger than the flood tide, due to the amount of rainfall and spring tides. Keep an eye on all available signs and remember the current rips in the channel’s deeper water. Also remember to set up your boat for the chop on the weekends. Between swirling currents and boat traffic, smooth water is hard to find in the Chesapeake Bay this time of year.

One of the many challenges Annapolis presents in the spring is the changing wind conditions caused by the approaching frontal systems or the lack of approaching systems. Determining the weather system you are racing in will help you plan which wind direction will prevail in the day’s races.

Here are some tips to understand the local conditions a bit better:

• Clear skies and air temperatures that are warmer than the water temp is a typical spring day, and it’s not a good combination for breeze this time of year. The sea breeze has a hard time developing due to the cooler temperatures, so expect light air overall.

• Southwest is the prevailing wind direction during the year, but southerlies are generally weak in the spring unless accompanied by a frontal system.

• As a front goes through Annapolis, the wind will clock to the west until it reaches the northwest, which is the prevailing cold front direction. Winds will blow from the northwest at 20-knots for a few days and then clock to the northeast and die, depending on the strength of the front.
  
• Westerlies are unstable with 25-degree shifts (or more….) and heavy puffs. Watch for more wind from the Severn River and off the closest weather shoreline.

• Northerlies are somewhat stable in pressure, but with the breeze coming across the land the shifts are fast and typically very large.

• Easterlies are dying breezes and especially weak when following a dying northerly. Often the far right pays because of the new direction and the far left pays because of old pressure. The middle normally suffers.

If you have any questions, reach out to the Quantum Annapolis team or come chat with us during the regatta.

The post Local Knowledge for Spring Racing in Annapolis appeared first on Sailing World.

The traveler is a great sail control when it comes to fine-tuning the mainsail to maximize power and control helm and heel angle upwind. A general rule of thumb is to use the mainsheet first for the gross tuning, then fine-tune using the traveler.

Here is what a general sequence using the traveler might look like. First, set the mainsail twist using the mainsheet. Trim the sail so that the top batten is parallel to the boom and make sure the top telltale is just on the verge of stalling. Next, position the boom on the centerline with the traveler to create your baseline and position for power. In light air, this will pull the traveler car itself well up to weather in order to put the boom on centerline since the mainsheet will be eased to allow the leech to open up. As the breeze builds and the sail is sheeted harder, the traveler will drop.

As the boat begins to develop too much heel and the weather helm that goes with, it lower the traveler to keep the boat on its feet. The traveler car and the boom will be below centerline by whatever amount it takes to control heel. The traveler is perfect to control balance with the normal puffs and lulls. In the really big puffs, you may need to ease the mainsheet as well to depower, but try using the traveler whenever possible.

In more traditional masthead rigs with overlapping headsails, you can play the traveler quite extensively and make relatively small changes to mainsheet tension. On the newer breed of sailboats that have big fractional mainsails and smaller non-overlapping headsails, the traveler tends to move less, remaining closer to the centerline, and the mainsheet is played more aggressively.

The traveler is the perfect tool for balancing heel and controlling helm, especially when cruising. It also makes life easier for the autopilot! Find a good average setting for conditions and fine-tune the traveler to keep the boat from heeling excessively.

Have a sail control question? Ask the experts at Quantum Sails.

The post Back to Basics: The Traveler appeared first on Sailing World.

2017 QUANTUM KEY WEST RACE WEEK

The floater position is reserved for a very special type of sailor, often overlooked but extremely important. They’re the sailor that jumps on last minute when there is weight to be filled or a regular crew member gets food poisoning. To understand the key qualities of an exceptional floater, you must first understand the process of putting a team together.

The core of the team is typically made up of the owner, driver, boat captain, and tactician, who determines positions and then fills in gaps based on size, availability, and, most importantly, how the crew members mesh as one unit. Next is the meat, those sailors who include mast, trimmers, grinders, bow, and coach. The floater is often the teammate that holds all of the parts together and often the last position to be filled. Again, this is often based on how much weight the team has left or if a role needs to be filled

Now imagine how many moving parts are involved with the sport, and you start to understand how the floater must be comfortable with last-minute race calls or getting dropped due to weight. While floaters must have the necessary basic skills, good floaters will also be personable, motivated, and willing to jump in and help with whatever is needed.

Since the floater position is usually filled last, floaters need to be comfortable sailing with different boats and teams. The first thing a good floater should do when stepping aboard a new boat is get acquainted with the basics, including vang, outhaul, cunningham, pole, and tack line. These controls require little strength and can be performed by anyone in a pinch. If there is a call for something and the floater is closest to it, jump to the task at hand! The more that floaters step up to the plate without being asked, the more responsibilities they will be assigned.

Here are some of the important basic skills a reputable floater should develop:

• The ability to read the wind. This means understanding apparent wind and how it relates to different boats, and then asking the helm or trimmer “Can you hear me alright and is what I’m saying helpful information?”
• Knowing how to load the new winch properly, a miniscule task but one that is quite helpful in a tacking duel.
• Pack kites in an organized way, specifically the way the bow team prefers. Showing up early to organize kites is a mindless task but makes a huge difference in the boat’s performance.
• Understanding marine electronics and the ability to drive the box. Navigation knowledge is helpful not only when no one on the boat is versed, but also during coastal races and deliveries.
• A good floater needs to have the personality to fit right in regardless of the boat and make everything easier for the team. Beyond the basic skills that can be taught, floaters need to develop mental skills in order to read a team’s cues. Here are some key things to remember when you step on the boat.

HIKE IT LIKE YOU LIKE IT: Even a 100-pound floater makes a difference, though it may seem insignificant to fully hike against a 10-ton boat when all other teammates leave the rail reaching to the offset. Nonetheless, hiking is a must, and even if it makes little difference to the boat’s performance, someone on the team will recognize the floater’s effort.

KNOW WHEN TO TAP OUT: Racers are competitive and want to win, which means not showing weakness. Knowing a personal max grinding wind speed and keeping an honest eye on velocity will determine when it is appropriate to tag in someone else. Do what is best for the boat.

ALWAYS LEND A HAND: What’s the point of adding one more body helping to trim the main or carry a sail? The extra horsepower makes a difference, especially on a physically tiring boat. It is always better to jump in and be told the assistance is not needed rather than doing nothing.

READ UP: As soon as you get the green light from the team, read the sailing instructions and regatta rules. Creating a cheat sheet with change marks, start times, flag numerals, and any other useful information is a great way to stay in the know. This also applies to the general rules of sailing. Make sure you own a copy of the current rules and make sure you have a good understanding of them.

If you’re just starting out, remember that an adaptable personality, get-go attitude, and humor are what will make you a great floater and help you keep your schedule full.

This tip was brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post The Floater: A Versatile Teammate appeared first on Sailing World.

Part of managing a sailing program of any kind–be it cruising or racing–is balancing the budget. From deck hardware to bottom paint and sails, something always needs replacing or fixing. Luckily when it comes to sails, there are a few inexpensive things you can do to help you extend that budget a little further.

1. Get Your Sails Inspected

Sail inspections can bring to light not only torn stitches or tired webbing, but also use issues that may be causing damage to your sail. For example, broken stitching on the luff of the sail could indicate too much halyard tension or dimples in your spinnaker could be the result of crew pulling it down by grasping the middle of the sail instead of using the tapes.

Annual inspections should be part of every program with the goal of maximizing the life of the sail. Catching and fixing a few small problems (especially if the sail is older) can also prevent catastrophic failure on the water.

2. Recut Your Sails Every Few Years

All sails stretch and lose shape over time and through use. If you’re experiencing the tell-tale signs of stretched sails–an inability to point, difficulty steering, or lack of power under sail–it doesn’t necessarily mean you need new sails. Many sailors don’t realize sails can be recut to bring back up to 90 percent of their original shape and extend their life at a fraction of the cost of new ones. Typically, one or two recuts can be done over the life of a sail. Recutting sails has been a common practice for pro programs for years, sometimes adjusting and recutting sails between race days.

You’ll want a handful of good sail shape photos to take to the loft along with your sail. And bonus points if you take photos of your sails on an annual basis! Click here to learn how to get the best shots and start your recordkeeping. If you’re curious about the recut process and benefits, click here for an article to shed some light on what you need to know about recuts.

3. Have Your Sails Professionally Repaired

You might have saved the day with your quick fix when the spinnaker caught on a turnbuckle and started to rip, but did you remember to take it to the loft for a proper repair afterward? Onboard sail repairs are great when you need to finish the sail and get back to the dock safely, but they’re not meant to be a permanent fix. You’d be surprised how easy it is to forget you have a few strips of duct tape holding part of your sail together when it’s packed out of sight and out of mind. As you can guess, ignoring damage will not end well for the sail or your budget.

4. Check Your Rig Tune

If your rig tune is out of whack, it can significantly affect sail performance. Before you throw in the towel with your current sails, check to make sure the issue isn’t your rig. Have an expert sail with you to see what adjustments might remedy the problem. This is especially important for cruisers who don’t regularly tune their rigs for conditions the way a race program might. We have more information on that here.

5. Consider Sail Add-Ons

There are a number of sail add-ons and updates that can help improve functionality and extend their lifespan. Reefing points, UV covers, and spreader patches are all on the list. Talk to your sailmaker about what modifications can be made to help the sail work better and make it usable for a few more years.

6. Look Beyond The Sail

It is important to look at the health and setup of your boat’s entire system in order to get the most out of your sails. Not all systems are created equally, and having the right sail handling system for your needs will help reduce stress on the sails. Roller furlers are great for easily and smoothly using your headsail, especially if you have a novice crew or sail shorthanded. Mainsail handling systems, such as the Dutchman and an in-mast or boom furling system, can also come in handy and help to reduce wear-and-tear on your sail.

Of course, the right system needs to be in good shape. If the sail handling system is failing, you’re at risk of damaging your sail. Similarly, sun-rotted lines or finicky winches pose threats to sails under load, as do sticky tracks and tired blocks. Invite your sailmaker or local rep to your boat for help identifying problem areas or to discuss options for improving your sail handling systems.

You shouldn’t give up on your trusty sails just because you’re starting to experience performance issues or they’re getting older. Call your sailmaker and explore a few of these ideas before you open your checkbook to pay for a new set. If you decide a new set is the right solution, use this information and the expertise of your sailmaker to ensure your sails are setup properly and you’re using best practices and sail care services to maximize their lifespan and protect your investment.

This sail care tip brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post Getting the Most out of Your Sails appeared first on Sailing World.

Achluophobia, the fear of the dark, is the third most common phobia in the world, with nearly 75 percent of adults reporting some level of fear when the lights go out. According to researchers at the University of Toronto, the fear of darkness is directly tied to the fear of the unexpected. To truly enjoy the peacefulness and beauty of nighttime sailing, the only thing needed is proper planning and preparation to reduce the anxiety that the unexpected can bring.

PLANNING

Weather and Course

All good sailors know that planning is essential to a successful trip, but when sailing at night it is paramount. Check multiple weather sources frequently and especially in the hours leading up to sunset. Make sure you have studied your charts and know your nighttime route thoroughly. Know which areas could be problematic, the estimated time you will arrive in those locations, and who will be on watch during that time. Put your most experienced sailors or those familiar with the area on shift when entering your identified “danger zones.” Click here for a review of forecast sevices and apps to help.

Emergency Exit

While you are examining your charts, identify a few key locations (if applicable) you can divert to in the event that you face unexpected inclement weather. The lee of an island, a protected bay, or an alternative harbor facility are all options. Always have a backup plan for wind shifts and emergency situations such as injury or mechanical failure.

Timing

Plan the arrival at your destination during daylight hours, especially if you are unfamiliar with the passage or harbor. Arriving during the day gives you better visibility for unlit markers, natural hazards, and the advantage of knowledgeable harbormasters and dockhands to assist you. This may mean you need to purposefully slow down, turn off course, or speed up by motoring to arrive at your destination during the day.

WATCHKEEPING

Schedule

Unless you are sailing solo, it is a good idea to put in place a structured schedule to dictate watchkeeping duties while sailing at night. A clear schedule gives all crew members accountability during the passage and prevents individuals from getting overly fatigued and making potentially critical mistakes.

Rotations

Standard watchkeeping is set in four-hour rotations which is the amount of time needed for a full cycle of REM sleep. If there are two people aboard and you are traveling only for one night, the recommendation is to establish a four-hour solo shift, followed by a one-hour shift with both people on watch, followed by a four-hour solo shift. The hour shared shift gives the two crewmates an opportunity to make any sail changes; do a perimeter check of the boat to look for anything unusual; and check the weather, charts, and course together and make any necessary deviations from the plan. This schedule allows the person coming on shift a bit of time to thoroughly wake up before being left alone on deck. If you are keeping a watch schedule for more than one night, stick to the four hour increments so that you can continue the watch schedule for a 24-hour period.

If there are more than two people on the boat, set up a rotation with a primary, secondary, and off-shift person. The secondary person is “on call” for assistance that the primary watch keeper may need while the off-shift person gets uninterrupted sleep.

PERSONAL SAFETY & COMFORT

Safety is always the most important factor to consider when sailing, and there are several safety rules that should always be observed when sailing at night.

Lifejacket

The first and most important rule is to always wear a lifejacket…and wear it correctly. It’s a hotly debated topic whether you should choose an automatically inflating vest or a manual one (read about The Great Inflatable PFD Debate and get the lowdown on the different styles from an expert). It’s important you do your own research, assess the pros and cons of each type, and pick the system that is best for you and your adventure. Regarless which way you go, wearing a lifejacke is really is a no-brainer: It’s the single most important piece of safety gear a sailor has and is worthy of the investment needed to get one that is as comfortable as possible and includes features such as a strobe light, built-in harness, and a whistle (or someplace to store one). This is your first line of defense against a potential disaster. They may not always be fashionable or comfortable, but they are absolutely necessary while on deck – especailly at night.

Buddy System

In addition to having your PFD on at all times, it is paramount that no one ever leave the cockpit of the boat at night to check a potential issue without observing the buddy system. If the issue is minor and can wait until the next person is on deck, try your best to delay waking up your crewmates. If the problem requires immediate attention, wake up the secondary person and explain the issue. Once that person is on deck, attach yourself to the boat using a tether and proceed with the necessary repairs or sail changes. Never leave the cockpit without alerting another crew member and waiting until they are on deck.

Stay Fueled + Warm

Food, hydration, and proper attire are important considerations for nighttime crew that are easily overlooked. Having snacks, water, warm beverages, and plenty of layers within reach can make your night shift more enjoyable. Try starting with more layers than you think you will need, including a hat, socks, and gloves (even in tropical climates). It’s much easier to remove layers as you become warm than to search for the clothes you need once you become chilled. This takes energy you need to conserve for staying alert during your watch.

Think Ahead

Lastly, think of all the other things you may need to have on deck with you during your shift and have them ready when the time comes. A good kit might include a headlamp, spotlight, smart phone, headphones, Chapstick, Kindle, logbook, and writing utensil. This helps you to be considerate of your crewmates by limiting your movement on deck or going below and turning on lights to look for something you forgot. Your night-shift experience and your crewmates’ attitudes will be more positive if you spend a few minutes preparing for your watch before the sun goes down.

VESSEL CONSIDERATIONS

Conserve Energy

Keep in mind the needs and capabilities of your vessel while sailing at night. It is likely that you will use more power than you are making. Running your navigation lights, autopilot, radar, refrigeration, heat, air conditioning, water pumps, and other electronics will suck your batteries dry if you are not careful. Unless you have a wind turbine, running a generator may be the only option to keeping your battery bank from getting dangerously low. If you have to run a generator, be considerate again of your crew mates and try to run it while you are both awake or for an equal portion over two shifts. Be mindful of how much power your vessel draws and try to reduce your consumption as much as possible by using headlamps or flashlights instead of overhead lighting and hand steering for the first hour or two of your shift. Stock up on unrefrigerated snacks and beverages so you can eliminate opening and running the refrigeration systems. A significant amount of power can also be used if your vessel is set up with electric winches and roller furling systems. If possible, use the opportunity to practice trimming sails by hand. Your boat and your crewmates below will thank you for conserving power and keeping noise to a minimum.

Be Ready for Changes

If your vessel is not equipped with roller furlings, make sure that you have prepared before dark for potential sail changes, reefing, and wind shifts. If you think the wind is going to lighten up halfway through the night, have a larger geneoa rigged and ready at the bow for a quick and easy change between shifts. If the wind is going to build, make sure you know how to reef the sails and do a take-down if necessary. Always be more conservative with your sail area when traveling at night. Reef and reduce early to give yourself a wide safety margin.

The post Sailing at Night appeared first on Sailing World.

We reached out to a mix of successful sailors to find out what they want the other crew members to keep in mind to help them execute their job the best they can. Here’s what they had to say:

Bow:

“The race is not over until the spinnaker comes down. It is easy to switch to recovery mode right after crossing the finish line, but this can be costly with a messy takedown, ripped or wet sail. To go along with this, after races finish send the jib bag up before the food bag! It’s frustrating for the bow when I’m are ready to flake the jib and everybody is eating.

I am happy to see the tactician’s general awareness of the bow team. We understand tacking mid jib-flake can’t always be avoided, but a quick cleanup with everyone cooperating makes life much easier. Lastly, my lifeline is the pit position, I like when this person is attentive and stays by their position until the bow team finishes cleaning up between races!”

Mast:

“The mast is a lot easier when trimmers have patience on the set. They can pop the spinnaker open by sheeting too early and make the mast and foredeck look terrible! My key teammates are sewer and pit: a spinnaker set never works well if the trimmers, mast, sewer and pit are working independently, but when we hit on all cylinders, the set will be a thing of beauty. The other critical players to a happy mast are the tactician and helmsman. If the boat isn’t in proper orientation to the wind when it is time to take the spinnaker down disaster can strike. A great bow/mast team will make it work, but a little waggle to help collapse the spinnaker goes a long way for a clean drop.”
– Andrew Spaulding

Pit:

“Be mindful of where things are thrown. For example: a jib change on the run, I may not be the one putting the old jib or bag down below, so I ask teammates to be mindful of the flaked kite halyard. I flake it once and then spend the rest of my run focusing on weight placement, pole position, finding the leeward marks and it becomes time consuming to have my head in the boat for longer than necessary.

The pit is in the middle of two groups. When it comes to maneuvers, the bow and brain trust may not always be on the same page, and I often have to decide which one to follow. If the back of the boat is calling for something that the bow is not ready to do; I can’t force the issue. I can facilitate it, convey the sense of urgency, but I can’t take the spinnaker down or jibe it by myself. This communication becomes easier if I receive clear and timely information from either end of the boat.”
–Scott Murin

Headsail Trimmer:

“Acknowledgment of communication. If I ask a teammate to do something, they should either act on it immediately or answer ‘copy’. If there is no acknowledgment, the person making the request often asks two or three times getting louder each time. I often see this situation and, my ultimate pet peeve is when the teammate finally answers and says ‘I HEARD YOU!’ When people say “copy” I can leave the task with them and move on. My other suggestion is to make habit of saying the person’s name before making a request so their attention is grabbed and time is not wasted by repeating what they didn’t hear before their name was called (this could be the difference between a collision and a race win).” Morgan Trubovich

“A briefing with the days goals. There should be a morning discussion describing the weather, potential courses, and anything else important. After the team is on the same page, people can break into groups depending on who they need to interact with throughout the day. I talk to my offside trimmer and grinders about what situations may come up and then I talk to the main trimmer about possible sails and boat settings.

It is also important to have quiet and calm maneuvers. I like to have ongoing discussions about what’s to come so when the boat is actually turning everyone has already anticipated their weight placement and I can focus on feeling the sheet run through my hands.”
– Dave Gerber

Main Trimmer:

“The most important thing is pressure calls and relatives. A main trimmer is ‘head in the boat’ which only gives them so much feel, so consistent and accurate information are crucial for boat speed. I am happy with simple dialogue with the tactician to know what modes are expected. If we develop standard steps, it becomes easy to be on same page.

The jib and main must also cooperate, they are constantly working together to make the boat do what the tactician wants. As a main trimmer, I let the jib do what they want and communicate when they are hitting the main or when they can be tighter. It’s good to develop concise key words and terminologies for any maneuver where the main has to be fine-tuned; some examples: high build, high kill, half tack, speed build, or racing.”
– Luke Lawrence

Driver:

“I love it when new crew get onboard, listen to the race conversation and offer input where it might be lacking or where he/she can contribute value. For example, if no one is calling breeze on the rail, it’s great to have a crew take the initiative to make very concise and valuable breeze calls (Puff on in 3, 2, 1….). It’s also great when new crew take a few minutes to observe, listen and see what info or help might be needed instead of diving right in without first watching or thinking. It’s valuable when a crew member offers input and “finishes the sentence.” How many times have you heard someone say “…the right has a lot of pressure….” AND what??? Inquiring minds want to know. Finish the sentence: “… and they look strong/are headed/etc.” Completing the sentence and picture for the tactician, driver and speed team is extremely helpful. A positive attitude and imploring the “5 second rule” (does what I’m about to say make sense and is it valuable? Am I finishing the sentence with my comment? ) make any crew a welcome addition to my boat.”

Tactician:

“Come with a game face on. There is always time for bar talk, but it shouldn’t be before racing. I appreciate team members who get to the boat and prepare their position for racing. When people scatter and aren’t responsible for their area it takes away from what I need to be doing as a tactician and the performance suffers.”
– Geoff Ewenson

“Clear and short communication. I am happy when the trimmers and I are in sync with what steps we will take as conditions change. It is helpful for me to understand which way the trimmer is likely to move the leads, etc. as the breeze changes. For me, tactical input and observations are certainly invited before situations happen, especially 10 minutes before a start.”
– George Szabo

Boat Captain:

“Ask questions at the right time. I love when people want to learn and be involved with how the boat comes together, but choose a time when not much else is going on, probably not when I’ve just sat down to service a winch. I love it when each crew member takes responsibility for their station and addresses problems early, and to take it one step further if they are part of the solution whether it be a short term regatta fix or the long term ultimate fix, it’s fun to bounce ideas off others.

My life becomes easier when teammates self-delegate. I think of tasks as skilled and unskilled; if you are unsure how to help with the skilled boat work, there are always unskilled items that can be taken care of. Examples: filling water bottles, organizing down below, grabbing food and clean up. And if you still don’t know what to do, ask yourself, ‘If I were running this boat, what would I want done right now?'”
– Kyle Kant

– – –

This article is brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post Top Tips for Every Position Onboard appeared first on Sailing World.

Distance sailboat racing is a growing segment of our beloved sport. Offering new and different challenges, distance races around the world have attracted sailors with various degrees of offshore experience.

Part one digs into four simple onboard optimizations you can make to help ready your boat for distance racing. Here are the key takeaways to remember.

1) Weight Distribution

• Store weight in a low, centralized location and remind your crew of this.
• Remove all non-essential gear and items.
• Check cupboards and drawers for hidden items.
• Don’t skimp on safety equipment to save on weight!

2) Repeatable Settings

• Useful locations to mark repeatable settings:
• backstay
• halyards and blocks
• jib leads
• ​Use tape and deck stickers to mark and record successful settings.
• Write down settings and conditions and experiment until you find the best mix for your boat.

3) Bow Lacing

• Lacing material can be as simple as closeline from the hardware store.
• If you don’t have eyes or a rail already along the base, tie bungie cording between the bottom of your stantions for the base of the lacing. This avoids the need to drill holes for anchor points.
• “V” and Diamond lacing patterns are most common – if you run straight lines, space them 12-18 inches apart.

4) Setting an offboard lead

• Use an extra winch to control the new sheet after it’s attached before you release the old sheet.
• Make a tweaker line with a snap shackle and a snatch block to control the leech of the sail.

Stay tuned for parts 2 and 3 to get a step-by-step look at reefing your mainsail and performing headsail changes.

The post Distance Racing 101 appeared first on Sailing World.

Sometimes the right images appears before our eyes and help us understand how to make a hard maneuver feel easy. That’s how I felt when I saw these four great shots of two C&C-30s rounding a weather mark. One does a standard set, with the goal of staying on starboard tack after the mark rounding. The other does a jibe-set, often referred to as a “Zambuka”. Each does a great job, and it’s worth looking at the reasons why.

The first thing I see is how the lead boat protects the low road on the offset leg, knowing that they want to turn left at the mark to get onto port jibe. Sailing a lower angle shuts out any trailing boats at the zone and guarantees the ability to legally maneuver at the mark. From a boathandling perspective, the leader has pre-fed the clew of the gennaker around the headstay to help it set easily when hoisted. Many teams like to do this, but it’s not necessary if the jib is handled properly during the maneuver.

Both boats have their gennaker tacks pulled out to the ends of their poles. This helps spread the sail out for the hoist, but comes with some risk. If this part of the sail isn’t controlled, it can fall in the water and cause a trawl. Your bow team needs to understand and manage the risk, which differs from boat to boat depending on the way your foredeck work area is configured and whether or not your boat has lifelines.

As each boat bears away to hoist, the crew pulls the jib in close to centerline to allow the gennaker to go up easier and, if doing a jibing set, helps keep the light, downwind sail from blowing through the foretriangle during the jibe (photo 1).

The lead boat does a great job of turning slowly as the gennaker is hoisted. Too fast of a turn makes the sail try and blow through the foretriangle and increases the chances that it will fill before it’s up all the way. Slower is better, allowing the kite to be hoisted, and then the sheet eased as you come up to the final exit angle.

On the trailing boat, a smooth downturn also helps the helmsman find the exit angle and the trimmer fill the kite. Sail low enough to take away most of the heel, but still high enough that the sail will blow away from the rig and fill, once up.

Note that the leader started this process about a half a length ahead, and is now giving up distance to the trailing boat. The distance lost from this maneuver is part of the risk/reward calculation that the tactician makes before making this tactical call (photo 2).

For the “Zambuka”, the telltale sign that the turn has matched the hoist well is when the main falls across to the new side at the same time that the kite halyard gets to the top of the mast. Once the gennaker is fully up, the jib is eased or lowered to help the downwind sail fill. If you haven’t pulled the kite clew around early, the jib trimmer must be sure the sail has gone around the headstay before easing the jib. This prevents the kite from going through the foretriangle, under the headstay.

For the normal set, you know you nailed the turn when the kite fills easily, adding power instantly, but without feeling like you are at risk of broaching. This also gives your team a chance to get into their longer-term positions so you can find your optimum speed (photo 3).

Photo 4 shows team members settling into their spots to make the boat go fast. Time will tell which one chose the correct, tactical option. For now, we can see that the trailing boat has gained a length or more on the leader, but the leader will be on starboard when they meet again. You will spend some distance to do an “Indian” set, but if your team can nail it like this one did, you can be confident to make it happen when conditions require it.

A couple of final thoughts about both of these maneuvers:

• Plan ahead and let your team know what you’re thinking. The more time they have to understand the next move, the more likely it will go well.

• Leave an option to change the plan. We generally have a percentage call on how likely it is that we will do either move. But the team knows that it can always change.

• Practice. Yeah, do that . . . it’s important.

• Have a spotter. We always designate a team member to tell us what the boats near us are doing. Often we have a “what-if” plan in place so everyone knows what we’re doing based on whether the other boat is doing “X” or “Y”. The spotter calls out the other boat’s plan, if it can be determined, and then we know our options. This is another reason not to pull the kite clew around the headstay too early, as it tells other teams what you are doing.

• Watch and learn. Take time to watch how other teams do things. That perspective can shine a light or areas of risk and show you different ways to get the job done. The more you know, the better you can be.

• Relax. When you’ve thought things through, practiced well and communicated the plan you can execute your maneuvers with confidence.

The post Nailing the Spinnaker Set appeared first on Sailing World.

There is an old sail trim adage, “trim the front of the jib and back of the mainsail,” or where the wind meets and leaves the sail plan. Telltales are a key tool helping you figure out what is going on at these critical junctures, and that is why they are placed just aft of the leading edge of the headsail and off the leech of the mainsail. There are other places you can use telltales, off the leech of a non-overlapping headsail (jib), or sometimes in the middle of a mainsail in the upper sections, but these are less critical.

For a sail to work, air has to flow down both sides. Telltales tell us about that flow. Without them we are flying blind. They tell us all sorts of useful things depending on point of sail, wind velocity, and whether we are trimming or driving. Let’s start at the front of the boat and work our way back.

Headsail Basics

The very first time we were handed a jib sheet we learned the golden rule of sail trim, “when in doubt, let it out.” Ease until the sail luffs and trim in just enough to stop. Telltales give us a more refined look at this concept. As a general rule, start by easing until both telltales on both sides of the sail are streaming aft. Here’s a look at what you’re likely to see and how to handle it:

Both hanging straight down: If both telltales are hanging straight down you’re trimmed in too far and the air isn’t getting around the sail effectively – ease out slowly.

Leeward flowing aft, weather dancing: If you ease too far the leeward telltale will flow, but the inside (weather) telltale will lift up. Trim in a bit more to get them both flowing straight aft.

Both flowing aft: If you’re in the sweet spot, both should flow straight back.

Note: It is often hard to see the leeward telltale (especially in low light); windows are a must!

Headsail Trim on a Reach

Easing the sail on a reach allows the sail to open up (twist) from bottom to top. This effectively changes the angle of attack and the more open top telltale sections will indicate luffing (inside telltales lifting) well before the bottom. This is why we typically have at least three sets of telltales up the luff of a headsail.

To get the top telltales to flow, move the lead position outboard and slightly forward to help the sheet pull down on the clew and close down the top sections of the sail. This is where a second sheet led to the outboard rail can come into play if that’s part of your program. Depending on how far you have to ease, you may actually end up with tension on both, shifting the balance in puffs and lulls (inboard in the lulls, outboard in the puffs) as you try to maintain perfect trim.

A word of caution: you will never be able to get an eased sail to have all three sets of telltales doing the same thing on a reach. If you pull down hard enough to get the top telltales streaming aft, the bottom ones will be stalled. On a reach you have to compromise. Trim the middle of the sail perfectly. Get the middle telltales flying straight aft, allow the top inside telltale to lift some, and have the bottom outside telltale start to hang straight down – indicating stalled flow.

Ignore the telltales if you are overpowered. If the boat heels too far and wants to round up into the wind, all bets are off. You don’t need maximum power anymore, so you don’t necessarily want the telltales streaming straight aft. Ease the sail until the boat is upright and on her feet. Who cares if the sail luffs? You want it to luff to shed excess power.

Headsail Trim

Easing until there is flow over both sides works fine on a reach, but what happens when you want to go hard on the wind? Telltales still have a lot to tell you.

First, sheeted in hard, the sail should now finally luff evenly from bottom to top. As you head up, the inside telltales at the bottom, middle, and top of the sail should lift at about the same time. If the top inside is lifting well before the bottom, the lead might need to go forward. Be careful with this rule. Generally it is always best to have the top of the sail luff just a little ahead of the bottom. When in doubt it is better to have the lead too far aft than too far forward. Letting the foot flatten out and the top twist off allows you to sheet the sail harder without stalling.

The game upwind is to try to sheet the sail as hard as possible without killing all boat speed. Keep in mind the golden rule, “speed first, then point.” The sail’s distance off the spreader (or in the case of a jib how far inside the spreader tip) usually determines how far you can trim in, but telltales can provide a clue if you’re trimmed too hard. If both inside and outside telltales appear to want to break at the same time (which means the driver’s “groove” is very narrow), try easing an inch or so. Stable telltales mean a wider steering groove. The lighter the air, the more important this becomes.

In very light air small changes in wind velocity mean big changes in apparent wind angle. This makes it very hard for the helmsperson to keep up. In this situation, the trimmer can help by active trimming through puffs and lulls. In a puff the outside telltale will stall and the sail will need to be eased to keep the flow. Ease and then trim gradually as the driver slowly comes back up to the new apparent wind angle. In a lull the apparent wind will go forward and the inside telltales will lift, showing luff. Over trim for a moment to keep the sail full, then ease as the driver slides down to the new angle.

Headsail Driving Upwind

If you can’t see the headsail telltales there is no way to sail upwind efficiently. This is what makes cruising boats difficult to steer upwind. The wheel is usually so far aft to maximize cockpit space that it takes a Houdini like act to see them. Sometimes the only way around this is to go to leeward to steer. This is okay in light air, but not recommended in windier conditions.

Once you can see the telltales, the game is pretty simple. For maximum power, the telltales need to stream straight aft. If the outside telltale spins or sags straight down head up. If the inside telltale lifts bear off. In general, it is better to ride the inside telltales, having them just on the verge of lifting. In medium air with the boat going well, it is okay to have them lifting up so that the inside telltale is at a 45 degree angle, and the leeward telltale remains straight back. With good boat speed you want to stay on the high side of the groove.

Remember the adage “speed first, then point?” In light air be careful about getting too high in the groove (inside telltale lifting). Press (head down) on the jib and make sure both telltales stream aft, perhaps even allowing the outside bottom telltale to stall part of the time. Typically you are relying on the telltales in the window, the bottom set, but in light air it might be better to move your eyes up to the middle set of telltales because the bottom outside will tend to stall. This is when it is okay to steer from the leeward side to see the whole sail. Your weight down will help create needed heel anyway. If the sail is stalled at the bottom all the time in order to keep the boat moving it may just be over trimmed – ease slightly.

In windier conditions telltales become less important and the angle of heel rules. As a puff hits don’t try to keep the telltales flowing, let the boat head up to maintain the same angle of heel and keep the helm pressure constant. The inside telltales will lift indicating a luffing sail. This is called “feathering.” Feather, don’t fight. Sail a constant angle of heel letting the boat come up in the puffs and bearing off to add heel in the lulls.

Main Trimmer

When it comes to trimming the main off the wind the standard rule applies: let it out until it luffs along the leading edge, then trim in just enough to stop. Telltales come in handy when setting twist. With the boom eased out it begins to lift, opening or twisting the leech. If it is too open you are giving away power. Too closed and the flow will be stalled off the trailing edge. The telltales should be streaming. The vang takes care of pulling down and controlling twist on a reach, so add vang until the top telltale just begins to stall. The top telltale is the key, as it will stall first.

On a deep run with the mainsail eased all the way out perpendicular to the boat (or up against the shrouds) it may not be possible to get attached flow off the back of the sails and the telltales may not be useful. In this scenario you just have to go back to keeping the top batten parallel to the boom.

Upwind the mainsheet (sometimes helped out by the vang in windier conditions) takes over the job of controlling twist.

Light Air: In light air, make sure there is flow off the back of the sail by having all the telltales flowing. More twist makes it easier for the boat to accelerate. Again, the top telltale will stall first if you are over trimmed and pulling down too hard. It is almost impossible to stall the lower telltales unless you are grossly over trimmed.

Medium Air: In medium conditions you can sheet harder since the boat is now up to speed. Trim as hard as you can without slowing the boat down below target speed. The top telltale may be stalled a lot of the time.

Heavy Air: In heavy air it is just a matter of keeping the boat on her feet. Ease the mainsheet to control heel and helm. The telltales will always be streaming, but they are no longer the issue.

The Other Telltales

I mentioned earlier that sometimes we use telltales in addition to the ones on the luff of the jib and the leech of the mainsail.

Telltales can be used on the leech to indicate flow on a non-overlapping jib. As usual, it is the top telltale that counts. Usually there is only a single telltale in the upper 25% of the leech. Trim too hard or pull the lead too far down (or too far forward) for conditions and that telltale will stall. Twist is essential in a non-overlapping sail so you always want the telltale flying.

Additional telltales are also used sometimes in the upper sections of the mainsail across the middle of the sail. They help refine the twist picture and give a more subtle indication of how hard you are trimming the mainsail. They may indicate stalled flow before the leech telltale disappears. Again, they are in the top sections of the sail because that is where the sail will stall first if over trimmed. If they are too close to the mast the disturbed flow behind the spar will make them useless.

Don’t fret if this feels like a lot to digest and think about while sailing, pick a section to practice during your next sail and test it out. Experiment with easing out and trimming in, as well as adjusting cars or vang, and pay attention to how things change, not only how the boat sails, but also how the telltales change. As you practice, reading your telltales and sail trim will become second nature.

This tip was brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post What are your Telltales Telling You appeared first on Sailing World.